Issue 147, November/December 2009

Dowsett Family Winery

Stephen Tanzer

International Wine Cellar

http://www.wineaccess.com/tanzer

2008 Gewurztraminer Celilo Vineyard Columbia Gorge ($22; from a block of vines planted in 1984) Very pale yellow. High-toned aromas of nectarine, lime and mint. Juicy and just off-dry (4.8 grams r.s. per liter), with subtle stone fruit flavors complicated by spices and a suggestion of marzipan. Boasts plenty of ripeness and body to give it considerable appeal, along with the fresh acidity to provide flexibility at the dinner table. 88

2007 Devotion Red Wine Columbia Valley ($30; a blend of syrah, mourvedre and grenache)Good full, deep red. Musky raspberry, soy sauce and pepper on the nose. Fat and sweet if a bit jammy, combining red fruits from the grenache with meaty mourvedre and peppery, floral syrah.  The raspberry flavor carries through to the finish, which features dusty tannins. Relatively little new oak used here. A bit ripe for me, but clearly a bottling-and a winery-to watch. 87

Tags: Add new tag

Trackback URI | Comments RSS